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Thursday, July 31, 2014

How to recover deleted photos from a memory card - CNET


How to recover deleted photos from a memory card

Just deleted an important batch of images from your memory card? Never fear, here's how to undelete them for Mac and PC users.

"Uh oh."

Those are probably the first two words you'll utter when you realise your photos have disappeared. If you've accidentally formatted your card or you suspect it has become corrupted, there are ways to recover your images. Here's how to get started.

You will need a card reader, a computer, the memory card in question and nerves of steel.

Step 1: Don't do anything to your memory card once you realise photos have been deleted. This means, don't take any more photos on the card and remove it from the camera immediately.

Step 2: Select a recovery suite. The software mentioned in this tutorial is Recuva for Windows and PhotoRec for Mac, which are both free options.

Bear in mind that there are plenty of other options out there, and you may already have one that was included with your memory card, if it was from vendors such as Lexar or SanDisk.

memorycard.jpg
Dave Cheng/CNET

Step 3: Install and set up the software on your PC or Mac.

Step 4: Let's start with Recuva first. Start up the program and choose what sorts of files you want to try and retrieve. In this tutorial we're looking for photos, but Recuva also gives you the option of finding a number of other file types.

recuva-photorec.jpg
Recuva can also find many other file types. Screenshot by Lexy Savvides/CNET

Click through the menu until you reach the screen telling you in which location to look. Plug your card reader into your computer and select the root directory of where your camera stores its image files -- provided it hasn't disappeared when the card was formatted or the pictures were deleted. This is typically a folder called DCIM, or the name of the camera manufacturer or model.

For PhotoRec, the process looks a little more complicated, as it's a command-line interface rather than a graphical one. Don't be scared off though, as it's quite easy to use once you get accustomed to it.

Start up PhotoRec and enter your Mac password if prompted, so the program can have access to all drives. Then, select the drive that you want to recover (i.e. your memory card) using the arrow keys to highlight the correct option. It may not be named how you expect, so use the size to give you an indication of which drive is the right one.

Press enter to proceed, and choose the FAT16/32 partition in order to scan the directory structure set up by your camera. Press enter to keep going to the next menu, and select the Other option (FAT/NTFS).

Continue to the next screen using the enter key. This next selection will tell the program where to look for the files. If you suspect the memory card is corrupted, use the "Whole" selection. Otherwise for deleted files, select "Free". Hit enter again and select where to save the recovered files -- use the C key to confirm. Then, start the recovery process.

photorec-run.jpg
Running the scan in PhotoRec Screenshot by Lexy Savvides/CNET

Step 5: Run the scan and see what files it turns up. Hopefully you will get some results here, which means the software has found your images.

recuva-recovered.jpg
The "health" of your files indicated by green, orange or red lights. Screenshot by Lexy Savvides/CNET

If you chose to search only for pictures in step 4, it will only show up standard file formats like JPEG. If you're looking for raw files and they're not showing up, there is one more step you can do.

In Recuva, click "Switch to advanced mode", which will show you what file types the software is looking for. All you have to do is add the file extension of your camera's raw format. This is typically something like .CR2, .NEF or .ARW depending on your camera brand. If in doubt, check your camera manual.

recuva-filetypes.jpg
Add your raw file extension to the box circled above. Screenshot by Lexy Savvides/CNET

In PhotoRec, you can choose the types of files to search for using the "FileOpts" command from the main menu. Some proprietary raw formats will be found under the general .tiff extension, so make sure this is selected.

Step 6: For Recuva, select all the images you want to restore, and click the "Recover" button. Choose a place you want to restore the files to. You will want to choose somewhere you can access easily, like the desktop or your pictures folder. It's best not to save them back to the memory card.

For PhotoRec, you will have already chosen a recovery location in a previous step. Navigate to the folder in Finder to see what's there.

photorec-found.jpg
Ta da! Photos found. Screenshot by Lexy Savvides/CNET

Step 7: Check the files that have been recovered, then back them up!

Hopefully these steps will have recovered your images. If not, there are other options to try, including paid software, as well as professional data recovery services.


Tuesday, July 22, 2014

Camera Modes Explained – PictureCorrect


CAMERA MODES EXPLAINED

If you're just learning about your camera, then chances are you've taken a look at the top of your camera only to become immediately confused. However, you don't need to worry, as I'm going to explain what each and every one of these camera modes does.

camera modes

"Mode Dial & Lock Lever" captured by Hideya Hamano

Automatic ([ ])

The automatic mode really doesn't need much of an introduction; you can probably guess by the name what it does. Automatic allows your camera to set all of your camera options "automatically" to produce the exposure that it thinks is correct.

Automatic mode doesn't allow you to set the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, or even the flash, which often pops up and ruins your photos. If you don't know how to use your camera and are considering shooting in this mode, I would advise against it;  it won't help you one bit, and your images will more than likely come out terribly.

Program Mode (P)

Program mode is a mode for beginners to start to understand their cameras. Program mode is similar to automatic in the way that it allows the camera to make the decision on which settings to use to correct the exposure. Once the settings are selected, you can easily change them. For example, if the camera thinks that the correct shutter speed would be 1/200 of a second but you think this is too slow, you can change it so it gives you a shutter speed of, say, 1/400.

If you don't know much about cameras, I would recommend using this mode to start off with.

Aperture Priority (Av)

Aperture priority is a mode in which you set the aperture while the shutter speed is automatically set for you to give the correct exposure. This mode is useful when you want to achieve a certain depth of field. For example, if you wanted a shallow depth of field (not much in focus) then you could set the aperture to your lens's lowest number (e.g. f/1.8), and if you wanted a wide depth of field you could set it to its highest aperture value (e.g. f/22).

aperture priority mode

"Scream!" captured by Danny Perez Photography

Shutter Priority (Tv)

Shutter priority is similar to aperture priority. This time, however, you only set the shutter speed, and the rest is done for you. This mode is useful when you want to tell the camera that you only want to shoot photos at a certain speed and not any lower or higher.

shutter priority mode

"Untitled" captured by Rick Burress

Manual (M)

Once you have learned how to use your camera, you will probably want to shoot in manual mode as much as possible. While in manual mode, you are able to change all of the settings as you see fit. Aperture, ISO, shutter speed, and white balance settings can all be changed independently to create the image you're looking for.

Learning to shoot in manual mode will help you understand photography in greater detail and will allow you to produce good, consistent shots each and every time.

Give each of these modes a try and see how they work for you.

About the Author:
Ricky Davies is a freelance photographer.


Wednesday, April 9, 2014

How To Shoot A Liquid Flow - DIY Photography


HOW TO SHOOT A LIQUID FLOW

Just for the 4th of July, we thought to show you how to make a different kind of fireworks, the liquid kind.

If you liked Corrie White's how to shoot water drops tutorial, you are going to love her how to shoot a liquid flow tutorial (it's this tutorial :).

Primary Plumes

And here is how it goes

Preparation and Materials

I use a small plastic 5 liter aquarium filled to 3 cm. from the top with water. Only an area of about 8 cm. wide is used to take the pictures. After filling the tank with cold tap water, I wipe the front of the tank with a bundle of pipe cleaners to clean any bubbles sticking to the inside of the tank in the drop zone. Then I let the water settle for a couple of minutes to allow the tiny bubbles to dissipate. On the inside of the back of the tank I have some black plastic for the background which also stops any flash glare on the tank itself.

Above and Below

I usually use table cream mixed with some food dye. Sometimes I will use a bit of acrylic paint but I prefer the cream. I have a thin wire across the top of the tank to mark the area of focus in the drop zone. I dip a marker or ruler into the water to use as a focusing aid. The tank sits on a small cardboard platform with some raised markers so I can reposition the tank in the same spot after each cleaning without having to refocus each time. I prefer to have the camera at a very low angle to the tank so that I can include the surface of the water in the shot. I use medicine droppers and have the cream mixture in shot glasses. I use three flash guns for these. One from the top and two on the front corners. They are triggered by wireless on my Canon 7D camera.

White Plume

The Process

When I'm ready, I drop a small drop of cream into the water and take a couple of shots of the single drop. Then I will use various colors and sometimes drop two colors simultaneously for which I have to tape my shutter button to the floor and trigger it with my foot. Lately, I have been using three droppers with primary colors to get a nice color blend effect. For the plumes, you need to give the dropper a good squeeze. You only get a few shots before the water is too cloudy for any good keepers and the process starts all over.

Set-up for Cream Drops with a base.

For the ones with the splash on the surface with the flow under the water, I fill the tank only half full. The first drop is discarded, but the second one will show the flow underneath. Quite often I will drop a couple of drops of cream into the water, then trigger the splash to fall on top of these. For these shots I will use a delayed flash to light up the action in the water. Also, for these I will use colored gels on the flash guns. Two or three shots and it's clean up time again.

Mint With a Scoop of Strawberry

Post

I like a clean background so I do a lot of clean-up. The water is often cloudy so I clean this up as well as any bubbles that get left in the tank. On all my shots, I rotate the picture 180 degrees so it looks like the flow is moving upwards. Just my preference. Some of the liquid flow shots are suitable for the mirror and flip process. There is a simple tutorial for this here.

The Sacrifice

These are a lot of work but I love the outcome. Definitely not for the impatient!!

About The Author

Corrie White is a photographer based in Ontario, Canada. She shoots breath taking water drops and other water inspired photographs. You can watch her art on her Flickr stream, on her site, or follow her on Facebook.